Faucet Installation

Updated November 6, 2026

Pick the state

Alabama Alaska Arizona Arkansas California Colorado Connecticut Delaware District of Columbia Florida Georgia Hawaii Idaho Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Kentucky Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri Montana Nebraska Nevada New Hampshire New Jersey New Mexico New York North Carolina North Dakota Ohio Oklahoma Oregon Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina South Dakota Tennessee Texas Utah Vermont Virginia Washington West Virginia Wisconsin Wyoming

Safety

Shut off the water supply valves under the sink before any work begins, and open the faucet to release remaining pressure. Place a bucket or towels under the connections to catch residual water. Avoid over-tightening supply lines or fittings, and never force corroded parts. If a shutoff valve will not close fully or a supply line shows cracks, bulges, or corrosion, stop and leave the repair to a technician.

Before the visit

Clear the cabinet and countertop around the sink and remove items stored beneath the fixture. Confirm the new faucet matches the sink's hole configuration, spout reach, and deck thickness, and keep the manufacturer's instructions and included hardware on hand. Note the faucet brand and model, and take photos of the existing connections so the technician can plan the job before arriving.

Repair vs replace

Repair makes sense when the issue is limited to a worn cartridge, washer, O-ring, loose handle, or a dripping spout on an otherwise sound fixture. If the faucet is relatively new, the leak is minor, and replacement parts are still manufactured, a targeted repair can restore full function at a lower cost than a complete swap.

When to replace

Replacement is usually the better option when the body is cracked or corroded, mineral scale has seized internal parts, repeated repairs have not held, or the fixture is outdated with parts no longer available. A new installation is also appropriate for remodels, sink upgrades, or switching to a different finish, style, or handle configuration.

Common issues

Symptom	Likely causes	Safe check	Stop when
A steady drip from the spout even when the handle is fully closed.	Worn cartridge, degraded washer or O-ring, mineral scale on valve seats, or a cracked valve body.	Close both shutoff valves under the sink and watch whether the drip slows or stops; note the faucet brand and model for parts matching.	Water pools under the cabinet, the shutoff valves will not close, or the drip worsens after the supply is turned off.
Water seeps around the faucet base or deck plate during use.	Failed base O-ring or gasket, loose mounting nuts, deteriorated putty or sealant, or a cracked sink deck.	Dry the area completely, run the faucet briefly, and check whether moisture appears at the base or from below; photograph any wet spots.	Water drips near electrical outlets or appliances below the sink, or the cabinet floor is saturated.
Weak or sputtering water flow from one or both handles.	Clogged aerator, partially closed shutoff valve, kinked supply line, debris trapped in the cartridge, or mineral buildup in the waterway.	Unscrew the aerator by hand, rinse the screen, and retest the flow; confirm both shutoff valves are fully open.	Flow drops across multiple fixtures at once or discolored water appears, which can point to a supply problem beyond the faucet.
A handle that is loose, stiff, or will not shut off cleanly.	Worn stem or cartridge, stripped handle splines, a loose set screw, or corrosion inside the valve.	With the water off, gently tighten the visible set screw and test handle movement without forcing it.	The handle spins freely without controlling water, or light pressure causes leaking at the stem.
Only cold water reaches the fixture while nearby taps run hot.	Closed or failed hot-side shutoff valve, a blocked cartridge, crossed supply connections, or a kinked hot supply line.	Confirm the hot shutoff valve under the sink is fully open and compare the results at an adjacent faucet.	The hot line is warm at the valve but no hot water arrives, or the valve leaks when turned.
A newly purchased faucet does not match the sink holes or sits unstable on the deck.	Mismatched hole count, insufficient deck thickness, incorrect spout reach, or missing mounting hardware.	Measure hole spacing, count the openings, and compare the measurements against the manufacturer's spec sheet before any plumbing changes.	Installation would require cutting the sink or countertop, or the existing supply lines show corrosion or damage.