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Faucet Repair

Updated November 6, 2026

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Safety

Shut off the water supply valves under the sink before any inspection, and open the faucet to release remaining pressure. Place a towel in the basin to catch dropped parts, and unplug any garbage disposal or nearby appliance before reaching into the cabinet. If the shutoff valves are stuck, corroded, or leak when turned, stop and wait for a technician rather than forcing them.

Before the visit

Clear out the cabinet under the sink so the supply lines and shutoff valves are easy to reach. Note the faucet brand, model, and finish if visible, and take photos of the drip or leak location. Have a bucket, towels, and good lighting available, and mention whether the fixture is a compression, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc faucet if known.

Repair vs replace

Repair is usually the right call when the leak comes from a worn washer, O-ring, cartridge, or valve seat, when handles feel loose or wobbly, or when water flow is reduced by mineral buildup. If the faucet is relatively new, a quality fixture, or still under warranty, replacing a single component often restores full function at a fraction of the cost of a new unit.

When to replace

Replacement makes sense when the faucet body is cracked or heavily corroded, when multiple parts fail at once, when repair parts are discontinued or cost more than a new fixture, or when an older faucet wastes water compared to modern low-flow models. Persistent leaks around the base after a repair attempt also point toward replacement.

Common issues

SymptomLikely causesSafe checkStop when
Constant dripping from the spoutWorn washer, deteriorated O-ring, damaged cartridge, or a corroded valve seatShut off the supply valves, dry the spout, and watch for a few minutes to confirm the drip source and rateWater keeps flowing after both shutoff valves are closed, or the valve stems will not turn
Water pooling around the base of the faucetFailed base O-ring, cracked mounting gasket, loose retaining nut, or corrosion around the bodyDry the area, run the faucet briefly, and check whether water appears at the base or from the supply connections belowWater drips onto electrical outlets, appliances, or wiring inside the cabinet
Low or uneven water pressure from one faucetMineral buildup in the aerator, a partially closed shutoff valve, a clogged cartridge, or a kinked supply lineUnscrew the aerator by hand, rinse out debris, and run the water to see whether flow improvesThe aerator is seized, the supply line shows bulges or cracks, or pressure problems affect the whole house
Handle that squeaks, sticks, or will not shut off fullyWorn handle threads, a failing cartridge, mineral deposits on the stem, or a loose packing nutWith the water off, gently move the handle through its range and check for visible looseness at the packing nutThe handle spins freely without engaging the valve, or forcing it causes the stem to leak
Sprayer or pull-down head that leaks or will not retractCracked spray hose, worn diverter valve, clogged spray face, or a failed hose weightExtend the hose fully and inspect for kinks, cracks, or drips along its length while the water runs brieflyThe hose sprays from a connection fitting or water reaches the countertop or cabinet interior
Rattling, humming, or banging when the faucet runsLoose mounting hardware, a worn washer vibrating against the seat, high water pressure, or trapped air in the linesHand-tighten visible mounting nuts under the sink and run the faucet briefly to hear whether the noise changesPipes shake violently, the noise spreads to other fixtures, or a joint begins to weep during the check
Discolored water or visible corrosion at the fixtureInternal rust in an aging faucet body, deteriorating supply lines, or pipe corrosion upstreamFill a white cup with cold water from the faucet, inspect for particles or tint, and compare with a nearby fixtureWater is brown or rusty from multiple fixtures, or flaking corrosion is visible on the faucet body