Plumber

Updated November 6, 2026

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Safety

Before any plumbing work begins, shut off the main water supply to prevent flooding, and turn off power or gas to water heaters and other appliances. Never attempt gas line work or repairs inside a pressurized system without proper training. If a leak is spreading near electrical outlets or appliances, shut off electricity at the breaker panel first and keep the area clear. Wear protective gloves and eyewear when handling pipes, drain chemicals, or sewage backups, and avoid mixing chemical drain cleaners, which can produce dangerous reactions.

Before the visit

Have the property details ready, including whether the issue involves a residential or commercial system. Note the make, model, and age of the water heater or fixtures involved. Clear access to the work area, shut off the main water valve if there is an active leak, and remove valuables from nearby floors. Write down when the problem started, any sounds, smells, or water discoloration noticed, and whether any DIY attempts have already been made so the technician can arrive informed.

Repair vs replace

Repairs are usually the right call when a fixture is dripping, a toilet runs or clogs occasionally, a faucet handle is loose, a drain drains slowly, or a water heater is under warranty and still relatively young. Licensed plumber visits make sense for minor leaks at accessible joints, a running toilet that needs a flapper or fill valve, and drain blockages that respond to snaking. If the issue is isolated and the surrounding plumbing is otherwise in good condition, a repair plumber can often restore function without replacing major equipment.

When to replace

Replacement becomes the smarter option when a water heater is more than 10 to 12 years old, produces rusty water, leaks from the tank itself, or struggles to meet demand despite repairs. Toilets with cracks in the porcelain, chronic recurring clogs, or repeated interior part failures are also strong candidates for toilet replacement. Corroded galvanized piping, recurring sewer line collapses, and fixtures with extensive mineral buildup typically cost more to repair repeatedly than to replace outright, so replacement is often the more affordable plumber solution over time.

Common issues

Symptom	Likely causes	Safe check	Stop when
Water heater producing no hot water or inconsistent temperatures	Failed heating element, faulty thermostat, sediment buildup in the tank, tripped breaker, or a pilot light that has gone out on gas units.	Verify the unit is receiving power or that the gas pilot is lit, and check that the thermostat is set correctly. Listen for unusual sounds from the tank.	The tank is leaking from the bottom, rust-colored water flows from taps, or there is a smell of gas near the unit.
Toilet constantly running or refilling	Worn flapper, misaligned or broken fill valve, cracked overflow tube, or an improperly adjusted float.	Remove the tank lid and observe whether the flapper seats fully. Add a few drops of food coloring to the tank and wait 15 minutes to see if color appears in the bowl.	Water is pooling around the base of the toilet, the tank cracks, or the toilet rocks on its seal.
Slow or fully clogged drains	Hair and soap buildup, grease accumulation, food debris, tree root intrusion in sewer lines, or foreign objects lodged in the pipe.	Try a plunger on the affected drain and remove visible hair or debris from the stopper. Avoid pouring in multiple chemical cleaners.	Multiple drains back up at once, sewage odors appear indoors, or water backs up into tubs or showers when other fixtures drain.
Low water pressure throughout the property	Partially closed shut-off valve, corroded or narrowed pipes, hidden leak, failing pressure regulator, or mineral deposits in fixture aerators.	Confirm the main water valve is fully open and clean aerators on faucets to rule out simple blockages. Compare pressure at several fixtures.	Pressure drops suddenly with no explanation, a pipe is visibly leaking, or water stains spread on walls or ceilings.
Visible water leaks under sinks or around pipes	Loose pipe connections, degraded washers or O-rings, corroded pipe sections, or cracked supply lines.	Shut off the local supply valve under the sink, place a bucket beneath the joint, and dry the area to identify the leak source.	The leak cannot be isolated, water damage is spreading, or the leak is inside a wall or slab where hidden damage may exist.
Sewage odor or gurgling sounds from drains	Dry or damaged P-trap, blocked vent stack, partial sewer line blockage, or a failing sewer line seal.	Run water in rarely used fixtures to refill dry traps and note which drains gurgle or emit odors. Keep bathroom windows open for ventilation.	Raw sewage backs up into the property, multiple fixtures emit strong odors, or standing wastewater appears in tubs or floor drains.