Plumbing
Updated November 6, 2026
Pick the state
Safety
Shut off the main water valve before attempting any repair on a supply line. For water heater work, turn off the gas or power source first and let the tank cool before draining. Never mix chemical drain cleaners, and avoid opening a septic tank lid alone — gases inside can be hazardous. If a leak is near electrical outlets or panels, cut power at the breaker before touching anything wet.
Before the visit
Locate the main water shutoff and test that it turns freely. Clear access to the water heater, septic tank access port, or affected drain so a technician can work without delay. Note the water heater's model, age, and any error codes or noises you have observed. Have a bucket, towels, and work gloves on hand, and jot down when the problem started and whether it is constant or intermittent.
Repair vs replace
A repair is usually the right call when the fixture or pipe is under 10 years old, the leak comes from a replaceable part such as a valve, flapper, or fittings, or a drain clog can be cleared at a single cleanout point. Heater repairs make sense when the tank is intact and the fault is a thermostat, heating element, or pilot assembly. Minor septic issues like a clogged filter or a baffle replacement can also be handled as repairs.
When to replace
Plan a change water heater project or a full water heater replacement when the tank is more than 10 to 12 years old, shows rust at the base, or leaks from the tank body itself. Sewer replacement is warranted when a camera inspection shows collapsed, root-filled, or repeatedly blocked piping. A toilet replacement is reasonable when the porcelain is cracked or repairs no longer stop running water. Septic tank cleaning intervals matter too — a tank that has not been pumped in 3 to 5 years may need service rather than patching.
Common issues
| Symptom | Likely causes | Safe check | Stop when |
|---|---|---|---|
| No hot water or water that runs lukewarm | Failed heating element, faulty thermostat, tripped breaker, or pilot light that will not stay lit | Check the breaker panel and verify the pilot light is lit if the heater is gas; note any error codes on the unit | You smell gas, see scorch marks, or find water pooled around the heater base — shut off gas and power and call a technician |
| Slow or fully clogged drain | Hair, grease buildup, food debris, or a partial blockage deeper in the line | Try a plunger or a hand auger at the fixture level; avoid combining chemical cleaners | Multiple fixtures back up at once or wastewater appears in a tub or shower, which signals a main line blockage |
| Water heater tank leaking | Corroded tank wall, failed internal anode rod, or a cracked fitting | Confirm the leak comes from the tank and not a loose valve or connection; tighten visible fittings gently and watch for drips | Water continues dripping from the tank body after fittings are checked — the tank cannot be patched and needs replacement |
| Toilet that runs continuously or will not flush | Worn flapper, faulty fill valve, misaligned float, or a blocked trap | Remove the tank lid and check whether the flapper seals and the float sits at the correct height; adjust gently by hand | Water escapes around the base of the toilet or the porcelain cracks, since a base leak can rot the subfloor |
| Sewage odor indoors or soggy spots in the yard | Cracked sewer line, dried-out trap, failing septic system, or a broken vent stack | Run water in unused fixtures to refill traps and observe whether yard spots grow or shrink over a few dry days | Odor is strong enough to cause dizziness or sewage is surfacing above ground — keep people and pets away and call for sewer repair |
| Septic tank backup or slow drains throughout the house | Tank at capacity, saturated drain field, or a blocked outlet baffle | Check the last known pumping date and look for standing water or unusually green grass over the drain field | Wastewater surfaces near the tank or drains back up into the house — schedule septic tank cleaning promptly, as delays worsen drain field damage |
| Low water pressure at one or more fixtures | Clogged aerator, partially closed shutoff valve, pipe corrosion, or a hidden leak | Unscrew the aerator, rinse the screen, and confirm fixture shutoff valves are fully open | Pressure drops house-wide at once or a water meter spins with all fixtures off, indicating a supply line leak |